Rangbhari Ekadashi dawned in Varanasi with a surreal twist on tradition. At Harishchandra Ghat, the faithful traded gulal for funeral ash, playing Holi amidst active cremations in a ritual that embodies Kashi’s profound mysticism.
Thousands converged, their voices rising in unison with ‘Jai Shiva Shankara.’ The scene was mesmerizing: ash-dusted faces grinning under the night sky, pyres crackling as offerings of devotion. This marks Holika’s prelude, infused with tantric essence unique to the city of light.
Eyewitnesses described the arrival of Devi’s barat, a procession that ignites the frenzy. ‘It dissolves death’s terror,’ explained a lifelong resident. ‘Shiva’s abode accepts us all, pyre or no pyre.’ Pilgrims from every corner affirmed the pull, many planning to culminate at famed Manikarnika.
Rooted in lore where Mahadev himself danced in cremation grounds, the practice spans ages. Though primarily for Naga babas historically, today’s inclusive spirit lets every soul join. Drums pounded relentlessly, blending joy with introspection.
As the festival spilled into the next day, Varanasi showcased its role as India’s spiritual vortex. Masaan Holi isn’t mere play; it’s a transformative plunge into Shiva’s realm, where ash signifies purity beyond the mortal coil.